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A comprehensive dictionary of textile: Phần 2

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The fibre is spun into yarn, which is then processed into fabric in a weaving or knitting mill. After dyeing and finishing, the woven material is ready for delivery either directly to a manufacturer of textile products to finally get stitched into clothes that we wear. Invite you to refer to Part 2 of the document.

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Nội dung Text: A comprehensive dictionary of textile: Phần 2

  1. 120 gros point I habit II =====~==. teeth on the cylinders and flats I under-coat fIbres. of carding machines. I • 1ace • gwpure • gros point I a needlepoint lace.made with a also known as point 'de venise I heavy buttonhole stitch and and venetian lace', very expen- with the pattern on a coarse sive heavy lace from Venice, mesh or held together with con- the most fashionable material I necting threads. for cravats among aristocrats I • gum waste and royalty in the 17th century. The lace was usually held to- I waste comprising all broken gether with a ribbon or cra- silk threads that have been dis- vat string, or sewn into a pre- carded during reeling, or at the formed bow and fall because I inspection of the skeins, and it was too heavy to be tied ac- I that have not undergone any curately. further processing. • grosgrain • gum-sericin a fIrm, tightly woven fabric with a gelatinous protein, usually I .. a heavy; pronounced, crosswise compnsmg 20% to 30% by rib. Used for neckties , millinery;, I mass of raw silk, cementing the trim. The term often describes two fIbroin fIlaments (brins) in ribbon but may be a full width a silk fIbre (bave). fabric as well. • gunny • guanaco a strong, coarse, plain weave indigenous to Southern Argen- I fabric usually of jute. Used for tina. Produced fleece of the baling and sacks. most glorious natural honey • habit beige colour. in the 17th century it meant for • guard hairs men the suit of clothes all in the fibres which project beyond the I same cloth or colour. The court under-coat of some mammals. I habit in the 17th and 18th cen- They are usually coarser than turies meant men's clothes, and 11=======Textile
  2. II habutai I hairy 121 *=============== the grand habit women's, worn ~ this definition implies a distinc- only at court and at festivities ; tion between sheep's wool and where the court was present. : the covering of other animals, ~ notwithstanding the similarity in • habutai I their fibre characteristics. Thus very light weight and soft, a ~ the crimped form and the scaly little heavier than china silk, but : surface are not confined to similar. Sold by weight measure ~ sheep's wool. It seems desirable known 'momme' (1 momme = ; in the textile industry, however, 3.75 g). Made from waste silk : to avoid ambiguity by confining that can be twisted. It is piece ~ the term wool to the covering or dyed or printed and sized. Has ~ sheep and to have available a many defects in the cloth, which ; general term for other fibres of has a 'shot-about' appearance, : animal origin. Normally the less but this does not affect the cloth. ~ widely used fibres are known by Comes from Japan, originally; name e.g., alpaca, mohair, etc, woven in the gum on Japanese : but collectively they should be hand looms. Lighter than ~ classed as hair. A difficulty arises shantung but heavier than silk. ~ when it is desired to distinguish For example are dresses, coats, ; between the fibres of the under- shirting, lampshades, lingerie, : coat and the remainder of the and curtains. ~ fleece, for instance, between the h kr ; soft short camel hair used for • ac mg : blankets and the coarse long a process in which stricks of ~ camel hair used for belting. The scutched flax are combed from ~ term wool is sometimes used for end to end, both to remove ; the shorter fibre, qualified by the short fibre, naps (or neps), and .. name 0 f the arum . al,e.g., cash - non-fibrous material, and to I I : mere woo. sub-divide and parallelise the fibre strands. I : . h'atry • hair ~ refers to fabrics with a lot of ; protruding fibres on the sur- animal fibre other than sheep's wool or silk. It is recognised that ~ face. I Textile=======1
  3. 122 hid/cardiglln I hllrness II ========* • half cardigan · .hank a variation of a IxI rib stitch ~ I. a synonym for skein. Textile with knitting & tucking in al- ; linear material in coiled form, ternate courses on one set of : 2. a definite length of sliver, needles. The construction on • slubbing, roving, or yarn, e.g., the back is the reverse of the • in the metric system it is 1000 face. • metres, • hammered satin 3. a synonym for count as ap- a satin fabric with an all over plied to sliver, slubbing, or rov... surface texture that looks like • ing. hammered metal. • • hank sizing • hand I the application of size solution the way the fabric feels when it • to yarn in hanks. is touched. Terms like softness, ~ • hard crispness, dryness, and silkiness describing fabrics with a firm, are all terms that describe the ~ coarse hand. hand of the fabric. • d. : • har erung • handkerchief linen • treatment of man-made re- a fme lightweight plain weave. generated-protein filaments fabric of linen or a linen blend. so as to render them com- Used in blouses, dresses pletelY insoluble in cold water • handle • and cold dilute saline solu- the quality of a fabric or yarn • tions. assessed by the reaction ob- • • harlequin tained from the sense of ~ a design motif dominated by touch. It is concerned with the : diamond shapes or checks in 3 subjective judgement of ~ or more contrasting colours as roughness, smoothness,; in a harlequin costume. harshness, pliability, thick- I • harness ness, etc. • an assemblage of heddles 11========1baile
  4. IlhtJrness.frtune I heattmnsforprinted . . =========1=2=3 mounted on a harness frame ~ which an extruded yarn passes that moves them all together. ; after leaving the spinneret, and A separate harness is used for : whose surface speed determines each group of warp ends that ~ the spin-stretch ratio. must be moved independently I : - haute couture to weave a desired pattern. ~ high-fashion garments (of - harness frame I which only a single price is pro- a wooden or metal frame upon ~ duced) it's extravagant, it's ir- which is suspended a series of : rational, it's unique and it's to- cords or wires called heddles, ~ tally unaffordable. each of which has a small eye ~ _ head Gute) through which a warp end is passed according to a prede- lone of a number of bunches of termined design. Each har- ; raw jute forming a bale. The ness frame is fastened to a : heads are each given a twist and mechanism that raises and ~ folded over before being made I into the bale. Iowers it in proper sequence . to form the sheds through ; _ heat setting w~ich the shuttle carries the ~ the process of conferring stabil- filling yarn to produce cloth of : ity of form upon fibres yarns a specI°fiIed pattern. :I or fabrics, usually by means ' of, - Harris tweed ~ successive heating and cooling a woollen tweed fabric hand ; in moist or dry conditions. woven on the outer Hebrides ; _ heat transfer printed ~ a method of printing fabric by islands off the coast of Scotland. (Harris is one of these islands). : transferring a design from a It is genuine Harris tweeds are ~ paper to fabric by passing them certified by the Harris Tweed ; together through heated rollers association. : or a heated press. Also called - haul-off roller ~ sublistatic printing or sublima- the first driven roller around ~ tion printing. ° ThmIe======11
  5. 124 heather I herringbone II ========~. • heather I may be several inches long, a yarn that is spun using pre- I while fibres used for domes- dyed fibres. These fibres are tic textiles are about 3/4 inch blended together to give a par- to 1 inch (1.9 to 2.54 cm) ticular look. (For example, I long. The elongation (1 to 6 black and white may be blended. percent) is low and its elastic- together to create a grey ity poor. The thermal reac- heather yarn.). The term, • tions of hemp and the effect heather, may also be used to • of sunlight are the same as for describe the fabric made from cotton. Hemp is moth resis- heather yarns. tant, but it is not impervious • heddle I to mildew. Coarse hemp fi- • bres and yarns are woven into a fibre or metal strand, pierced cordage, rope, sacking and with a hole (eye) , through which • heavy-duty tarpaulins. In the warp end it controls is • Italy, fine hemp fibres are threaded. used for interior design and • hemp apparel fabrics. 1. a coarse, durable baste fibre • henequen obtained from the inner bark of ~ the fibre obtained from the leaf the hemp plant. Used primarily • of agava fourcroydes lemaire, in twines and cordages, and which is native to Mexico. It is most recently apparel. produced by mechanically deco- 2. hemp is a baste fibre that • rticating the leaves into strands was probably used first in • from 4 to 5 feet. Asia. The fibre is dark tan or • • herringbone brown and is difficult to a variation on the twill weave bleach, but it can be dyed • construction in which the twill bright and dark colours. The I is reversed, or broken, at regu- hemp fibres vary widely in I lar intervals, producing a zigzag length, depending upon their effect. ultimate use. Industrial fibres • II = = = = = = = = T e x t i l e
  6. II higl1chargedsystem I hologfoam 125 *================ • high charged system ~ or more different widths. a method of dry cleaning in ~ • high-bulk yarn which an oil-soluble reagent ~ a yarn that has been treated such as petroleum sulphonate ; mechanically, physically or is added to the solvent so that : chemically so as to have a no- a Significdadntdamount .of water ~ ticeably greater voluminosity can be a e to obtam a sub-; bulk stantially clear dispersion of : or . water in the solvent. In a high- ~ • hi~h-~peed spinning (melt charged system the concentra-; spmnmg) • tion of added reagent, a so- : a melt spinning process in which I called detergent is 4% while, : ftlaments are drawn down abd in a low-charged system the ~ collected at high speeds. concentration ranges from I • hog wool %% to 2%. I the first clip from a sheep not • high count ~ shorn as a lamb, also termed tag refers to fabrics woven with a : wool. relatively high thread count, I : • Holland shade cloth resulting in a dense, tight fab- nco ~ a plain weave fabric similar to ~ sheeting with a stiff sometimes • high twist ; glazed finish. Often of linen or refers to yarn that are manufac- : cotton. tured with a relatively high I : • hollow filament number of turns per inch. This I may be done to increase the : a man-made fibre continuous yarn strength or to give the fab- ~ ftlament or fibre with a single ric a crepe texture or hand. ; continuous lumen. • high/low ; • hologram 1. pile fabrics that have varia- ; a three dimensional effect pro- tion in pile height : duced with a laser that changes 2. a corduroy with Wales of 2 ~ with the angle of view and re- Textile======== II
  7. 126 humespun I hopstu:king II ========* flects light in a striking way . I silk, similar to 'pongee' but Often printed on reflective ma- I finer, made from wild silk- terial. worms raised in the Honan • homespun area of China. The only wild I type that gives even dyeing coarse, rugged yarn is used. results. Originally an undyed woollen cloth spun into yarn and wo- I • honeycomb ven in the home, by peasants a pique fabric with a waIDe or and country folk the world cellular appearance. May be over. Has substantial appear- I woven or knit. ance and serviceable qualities. I • honeydew Made with irregular, slightly twisted uneven yarns. Has a I theresultofinfestationofgrow- spongy feel with a hand- I ing cotton by aphids of white- loomed tweedy appearance. fly. It takes the form of more Genuine homespun is pro- or less randomly distributed duced in a very limited quan- I droplets of highly concentrated tity and much power loom I sugars, causing cotton sticki- cloth is sold as genuine home- ness. spun. Many qualities made the • hoop cutter best is an ideal rough -and - I ready type of cloth. a hand tool, resembling a I large pair of pliers, which is • homopolymer I used to cut the metal ties of a polymer in which the repeat- cotton bales. ing units are all the same (cf. • hopsacking copolymer) . wool, worsted, cotton, linen, • Honan rayon, silk, hem, jute. In wool a high quality, plain weave I and worsted 2 x 2 basket usu- pongee fabric made with wild I ally or novelty basket to re- silk from Henan in Eastern semble hopsack cloth. Made China. The best grade of wild I with coarse yarn. Has a rather 11======1i:m1e
  8. II hose(narrowfobric) I hottenrt1thnumb;=========1=2=7 rough texture and quite du- I rable. - hose (narrow fabric) a tubular woven fabric for con- I veying liquid under pressure. Hose is manufactured in both unlined and lined forms. I When unlined, the weave is plain and the material is gen- erally flax or hemp with a I weaving density so arranged ; - hosiery knitting machine that when the fibres swell on ~ a knitting machine for the pro- wetting, the fabric becomes : duction of hosiery. Most are tight enough to reduce perco- ~ small-diameter latch-needle cir- lation under pressure to a neg- ; cular knitting machines. ligible amount. For lined hose, fibres other than flax or ; - hot drawing (synthetic filaments and films) hemp may be used in a 'plain I or twill weave. Lightweight: a term applied to the drawing hose woven from synthetic ~ of synthetic ftlaments or fIlms yams may incorporate an in- ; with the intentional application dependent tubular plastic lin- ~ of external heat. ing, which is introduced. : _ hottenroth number I - hosiery : a measure of the degree of rip- 1. knitted coverings for the feet ~ ening of viscose a hottenroth and legs, I number is expressed as the 2. formerly in the UK, the :I number of millilitres of 10% term was used in the generic : ammonium chloride solution sense of all types of knitted ~ that it is necessary to add to a fabrics and, goods made up ; somewhat diluted viscose (so- there from. : lution) to induce incipient co- ~ agulation under standard con- I ditions. T~le========11
  9. 128 hounds tooth check I Uudryun " ========* • hounds tooth check ~ effect in certain areas . a variation on the twill weave ~ • hue construction in which a broken ; that attribute of colour whereby check effect is produced by a : it is recognized as being pre- · I variation in the pattern 0 f mter- : dominantly red, green, blue, lacing yarns, utilising at least ~ yellow, violet, brown, Bor- two different coloured yarns. ; deaux, etc . • hounds tooth ; • humidifier a pointed broken check design. ; a device that vaporizes water Most commonly a woven pro- : and sprays it into the atmo- duced with contrasting yarns in ~ sphere in order to increase the groups or multiples of 4, wo- I amount of moisture in the air. ven in 2x2 twill. I •husks (silk) • huckaback ~ silk waste remaining on cocoons 1. a soft towelling fabric with : at the bottom of the basin after short, loosely twisted filling ~ reeling. floats to aid absorption, and a I dr hili" fib .. -C. birds eye or honeycomb SWlace • • hy ; op c res . texture. It is sometimes em - : fibres that absorb water easily, broidered. ~ take longer to dry, and require 2. it is strong, rough in the sur- ; more ironing. face fmish but fmer, shinie~ ~an ~ • hygral expansion cotton huckaback, has VarIatiOn : the reversible changes in length in weaves but most have small ~ and width of fabrics containing squares on the surface that I hygroscopic fibres as a result stand out from the background,: h . gam ' comes in white, colours, or :Icangesmre . coloured borders and also I • iaedryun stripes. The motif is made from : a short jacket, often richly em- a series of floats, some of them broidered, worn mostly in rather long, which·gives a loose I Kutch and Saurashtra, in coni- ~=======7Qaile
  10. II iIu# I iruligo & werprinted 129 *~~~~~~~== bination with an embroidered ~ disease or through plant senil- pyjama. ; ity, or occasionally because of : the genetic nature of the vari- -ikat ~ ety, the secondary-wall thicken- term ap~lied t? the r~sist-dye ~ ing may first be delayed and process m whIch desIgns are . then proceed at a reduced rate reserv.ed in warp or weft yarns ~ or wall development may cease by tym~ off small bun~les of ~ prematurely: the ripened boil y'ar~ with p~lm-Ieaf stnps or ; will contain a high proportion similar matenal to prevent pen- : of developed immature fibres etration of dye from the Indo- t nesian Mengikat, 'to tie' or 'to :t - indiennes bind'. : in the 17th and 18th centuries ~. the name given to all eastern - illusion ~ painted and printed cloths, a very fme sheer net fabric usu- ; whatever their country of ori- ally of nylon or silk. Very fme, : gin. all-silk tulle, which originated in t France. It has a cobweb appear- :t - indigo ance. For example veiling, par- : a type of blue dyestuff originally ticularly for weddings, and trim- ~ obtained from the indigo plant mmgs. ; but now produced synthetically, : used for denim. - imberline t a woven fabric with various t - indigo & colour : coloured stripes in the warp of- : refers to yarn dyed fabrics us- a ten separated by gold thread. ~ ing combinations of indigo used in upholstery, drapery. ; dyed yarns and yarns of other ~ colours together in the design. - immature cotton cotton in which the thickening ~ - indigo & overprinted of the fibre wall is appreciably : refers to printing done on an less than usual, note. If growth ~ indigo denim, indigo chambray, conditions are not favourable, ~ or indigo dyed fabric. possibly as a result of attack by ThmI#======11
  11. 130 ~~~~~~~=. • indigo dyed ~ woolsey in the 18th and early refers to a fabric which has been i 19th centuries. piece dyed with indigo dye. i • inspecting machine • indirect warping i a machine which draws cloth the transference of yam from a ~ ~ver a wide surface for. inspec- package creel onto a swift from : ~on purposes and which par- which it is subsequently wound ~ ~ally cleans the cloth by brush- onto a beam. ; mg. • ingrain (filament yarn) ~ • inspecting table descriptive of a ftlament yarn ; an inclined. table ov~r which composed of ftlaments of differ- : cloth to be mspected IS drawn ent colours, the ingrain effect ~ by hand. I • intarsia I 1. weft-knitted plain, rib, or ; purl fabrics containing designs : in two or more colours. Each ~ area of colour is knitted from a I separate yam, which is con- : tained entirely within that area, ~ 2. a motif design in stitch and/ I or colour ~ • interfacing I fabrics used to support, rein- ; force and give shape to fashion being produced by the random : fabrics in sewn products. Often exposure of the differently ~ placed between the lining and coloured fllaments at the yarn ; the outer fabric, it can be made surface. : from yarns or directly from fi- ~ bres, and may be either woven, • inkle, beggar's ~ non woven, or knitted. Some a fabric constrUcted as linsey- 11======7Qaile
  12. II inm'liningl irUiescmt 131 *~~==========~ interfacings are designed to be ~ knit constructions. fused (adhered with heat from ~ - intermingled yarn an iron), while others are meant to be stitched to the fash- ~ a multifilament yarn in which ion fabric. ; cohesion is imparted to the : filament bundle by entwining - interlining ~ the filaments instead of, or in 1. an insulation, padding, or I addition to, twisting. The ef- stiffening fabric, either sewn ~ fect is usually achieved by to the wrong side of the lin- : passing under light tension ing or the inner side of the ~ through the turbulent wne of outer shell fabric. The inter- ; an air-jet. Some manufactur- lining is used primarily to pro- : ers describe such a product as vide warmth in coats, jackets, ~ an interlaced yarn. Intermin- and outerwear. ~ gling should be distinguished 2. anyone of a wide variety of ; from air texturing in which a fabrics used between the in- : much higher level of entangle- ner and outer layers of a gar- ~ ment is achieved with the ob- ment to improve shape reten- ~ jective of producing texture or tion, strength, warmth or ; bulk. bulk. Interlining may be of : _ intermingling jet woven, knitted, or non woven ~ . d d· d material and may be produced ; an arr-~erate eVlce use as with or without a fusible ad- : ar; anc ary to. somel~oc~ses hesive coating. ~ 0 yam extrusIOn, 0 rawmg ; and texturing to induce inter- - interlock : mingling. I the stitch variation of the rib : - iridescent stitch, which resembles two I : a fabric with a changeable colour separate 1 x 1 ribbed fabrics ~ effect depending on the angle that are interknitted. Plain ; of view and lighting. It is usu- (double knit) interlock stitch : ally the result of weaving with fabrics are thicker, heavier, ~ one colour in the warp and an- and more stable than single I other in the weft. 'J.b:rik======== II
  13. 132 Irish laee I jRelbout II ~~~===========* • Irish lace some of them rather long, refers to any lace made in Ire- I which gives a loose effect in cer- land. Most often they are cro- tain areas. chet or needlepoint laces. • izarband • Irish lawn drawstring at the waist for a a lawn fabric produced from garment like the pyjama. fme linen yarns. • jabot • Irish linen I originally the term meant the a woven fabric produced in Ire- I neck opening of the chemise, land from 100% flax yam. and its lace trimmings, show- ing through the opening at the • Irish poplin I doublet. Early cravat of lace, a poplin made from a dyed pure often ready-made, were worn silk organise warp and a three- during the 17th century. The fold genapped fine worsted I lace fell in a soft bunch to the weft. It is a silk-face and -back I upper chest and was either fabric, the weft being com- knotted and draped or tied in a pletely covered by the warp. soft bow. The fabric is usually hand-wo- I • jackboot ven and is frequently given a moire fmish. over-knee high riding boot with I square toes and low heel, made • ixtle from stiff leather. it is strong, rough in the surface finish but fmer, shinier than cot- I ton huckaback. Has variation in I weaves but most have small squares on the surface that stand out from the background. I Comes in white, colours, or coloured borders. The motif is .' made from a series of floats, I 11======7ixriJe
  14. II jtu:lJU4rd Ijaspe 133 *=============== • jacquard ~ • jama woven fabrics manufactured by .I full-sleeved outerwear for men, using the jacquard attachment ; greatly popular at the Mughal on the loom. This attachment : and Rajput courts and worn provides versatility in designs .~ well into the 19th century. . and permits individual control I • d . : • Jam am of each of the warp yarns. Thus, fabrics of almost any type or ~ fme cotton muslin with a floral complexity can be made. Bro- I pattern brocaded in thick soft cade and damask are types of ~ cotton. Dacca was a famous jacquard woven fabrics. : centre for the production of fme . d kni I jamdani work. • Jacquar t : ~ • janghia a weft double knit fabric in which a jacquard type of mecha- ~ short drawers, worn by men nism is used. This device indi- ; and boys. vidually controls needles or ~ • jaquard mechanism (weav- small groups of needles, and ing) allows very complex and highly I : a shedding mechanism, at- patterned knits to be created. ~ tached to a loom, that gives in- • jacquard-card lacer ; dividual control of up to several a machine which laces together : hundred warp threads and thus in a pattern chain the perfo- ~ enables large figured designs to I be produced. (named after the rated cards that control the op- eration of a jacquard loom in ~ inventor, Joseph Marie J ac- weaving designs and patterns in : quard, 1752-1834). I cloth. : • jaspe I • jaffer : a woven fabric with a series of a plain-weave cotton fabric ~ faint stripes formed by the ar- with warp and weft in differ- ; rangement of light, medium, ent colours producing a shot :I and . dark warp yarns or by twist- effect. : mg together 2 yarns of differ- II
  15. 134 ~~~~~~~~=. ent colours. Used for drapery, ~ printed designs. Can look very upholstery, suiting, etc. i much like woven fabric wear • jean ~ very well and if washable, it : washes very well. a 2/1 warp-faced twill fabric I used chiefly for overalls or ca- • jersey fabric sual wear. Typical cotton par- the consistent inter looping of ticular 18's x 28's (32 x 21 tex), I yarns in the jersey stitch to pro- 90 x 60 (35 ends/cm x 24 picks/ duces a fabric with a smooth, cm). flat face, and a more textured, I but uniform back. Jersey fabrics • jerkin I may be produced on either cir- outer doublet worn in England cular or flat weft knitting ma- in the late 16th and early 17th I chines. centuries. It was sleeveless or with loose sleeves. • jersey stitch I a basic stitch used in weft knit- • jersey I ring, in which each loop formed 1. single knit fabric with an in the knit is identical. The jer- intermeshing of stitches in the I sey stitch is also called the plain, same direction on the face and I felt, or stockinet stitch. a series of semicircular loops on the back. I • jet craters 2. a general term referring to I annular deposits that some- any knit fabric without a distinct I times form around the holes on rib. the face of jets used in the ex- 3. right side has lengthwise ribs I trusion of viscose. and wrong side has crosswise I • jet rings ribs, very elastic with good drap- I annular deposits formed occa- ing qualities, has special crease- I sionally inside the holes of metal resistant qualities due to its con- : jets or spinnerets when used in struction, is knitted plain or has ~ the extrusion of viscose, particu- many elaborate tweed designs ~ larly into coagulants containing and fancy motifs as well as ; much zinc sulphate. 11======7e:mle
  16. 135 *==~~~~~~~ -jet spinning ~ -jhumb a system of staple-fibre spin- ~ a covering for the head and ning which utilises air to ap- ; body made simply by tying ply the twisting couple to the : sheet or blanket at one end all... I yarn during its formation. The : draped over the head. air is blown through small I • I holes arranged tangentially to : - Jupe the yarn surface and this ~ from the Arabic 'djuba', jacket. causes the yarn to rotate. The ; Jupe had two meanings from majority of systems using this ~ the Middle Ages on towards the technique produce fascinated : mid 17th century, jacket and yarns, but by using two air jets ~ skirt. Only in 1672 did the dic- operating in opposing twist ; tionaries de l'academie francaise directions it is possible to pro- : defme the term Jupe, 'part of duce yarns with more con- ~ women's costume, from the trolled properties but of more I waist to the feet.' The term had complex structure. ~ disappeared by then from men's : costume, except for the panels - jet-dyeing machine ~ of certain garments. From the 1. a machine for dyeing fabric ; 1670s on Jupe corresponds with in rope form in which the fab- : the modern meaning. In the I ric is carried through a narrow : 17th century women wore 3 throat by dye-liquor circulated I jupes one on top of the other at a high velocity, ~ the modeste, a top skirt that 2. a machine for dyeing gar- : often trailed, the friponne in the ments in which the garments ~ middle, which covered the are circulated by jets of liquid ; secrete, the underskirt. The lat- rather by mechanical means. : ter two reached the ground. I -jhabba :I - justaucorps loose, tunic-like garment. : male coat developed in the sec- ~ ond half of the 17th century. - jhula I Tight fitting in the shoulders, a kind of blouse for children. ; collarless and with flaring skirts 7i:Jaik======== II
  17. 136 jute liuJin buri II =---------* and knee-length. Th~ flare was I brown or grey colour, with a extended and made wider until I silky lustre. It consists of the early 18th century. Later the bundles of fibre held together coat became narrow, cut away by gummy substances that are in the front and sides, with a ~ pertinacious in character. It is standing collar. (Second half of ; difficult to bleach completely, 18th century). so many fabrics are bright, I dark, or natural brown in • jute I colour. Jute reacts to chemi- 1. a baste fibre, chiefly from cals in the same way as do cot- India, used primarily for gunny I ton and flax. It has a good re- sacks, bags, cordage, and bind- I sistance to microorganisms ing threads in carpets and rugs. and insects. Moisture in- 2. the fibre obtained from the creases the speed of deterio- baste layer of the plants I ration but dry jute will last for corchorus capsularis and I a very long time. Jute works corchorus olitorius. Commer- well for bagging, because it cially, jute is divided into two does not extend and is some- main classes, white jute gener- I what rough and coarse. This ally being associated with tends to keep stacks of bags corchorus capsularis, and dark in position and resist slippage. jute with corchorus olitorius. I It is widely used in the manu- Each of the above-noted classes I facture of linoleum and car- is further sub-divided into nu- pets for backing or base fab- merous grades denoting qual- nc. ity and other characteristics. • jute-spun • jute and burlap descriptive of staple yarn that jute is used in textiles for in- I has been prepared and spun on teriors, especially for wall I machinery originally designed hangings and a group of : for spinning yarns from jute. bright, homespun-effect .drap- .~ • k"" b ti" aIrl u eries and wall covenngs. I . . . . Natural jute has a yellow to : a floral motif m Indian textile I 11========Temte
  18. IlluUiWatttm I ~rchobi work 137 *================ design, based on the form of a ~ parts from excessive heat and green mango with a light curve ; cold. at the tip. ; .kapadu • kalabatton ; cloth used to cover the breasts. silver-gilt thread, used in em- : In Rajasthan and Gujarat a broidery. ~ simple choli-blouse is some- ~ times referred to by this name. • kalgha a popular motif in Indian tex- ~ • kapok tile design, broadly cypress- I 1. a short, lightweight, cotton- shaped and curving to one sides :I like, vegetable fibre found in at the top, crest. : the seed pods of the I bombocaceae tree. Because of .kali ; its brittle quality, it is generally gore wedge-shaped, triangular : not spun. However, its buoy- piece of cloth. ~ ancy and moisture resistance • kalidar ghagra I makes it ideal for use in cush- ghaghra made up of many ~ ions, mattresses, and life jack- gored pieces and thus flared in : ets. early Sanskrit literature. ~ 2. a unicellular seed hair ob- I tained from the fruit pods of the • kanjari ~ kapok tree eriodendron blouse like garment, worn a : anfractuosum ( formerly little long in front and generally ~ known as ceiba pentranda). The backless, held together with tie- ; fibre is also called ceba, ceiba, cords, with no shaped parts like : java cotton silk cotton, silk floss cups. ~ etc. Indian kapok comes from I bombax malabaricUffi. • kantop literally, 'topi, worn around I • karchobi work the ears'. This kind of cap; worksimilarto'zardozi'inwhich covers the ears and the back ~ gold or silver metal threads are of the neck to protect these : sewn on to satin or velvet with 7 1 t x r i 1 e = = = = = = II
  19. 138 kRmis I knit II =~~~~~~=. metallic threads to yield the ef- ~ erally of wool or a wool blend feet of true embroidery. ; with a fme lustrous nap, used • kasnis :I for overcoats. : 2. medium to heavy weight, tie-cords or strings used for ~ similar to Melton and Beaver. tightening. ; Well fulled in the fmishing with • katoris ~ a rather lustrous nap caused by cups, the word is used to de- : the use of lustrous crossbred scribe breast-cups as in a choli ~ wools, gives good wear and is or angIa. ; dressy looking. Blue, brown : and black are the most popular • kemp ~ colours. a coarse animal fibre with a wide ~ • kimkhab lattice-type medulla that is shed from the skin at least once a ~ silk fabric brocaded with silver year, it is often shorter than ; and gold. The metal thread used other fibres of the fleece , has a :I for brocading is made from a long tapering tip, and, when : fme strand of flattened metal completely shed, tapers sharply ~ wound over a core of silk, us- towards the root end. ; ing yellow silk under gold, and : white silk under silver. • kenaf I the fibre obtained from the ~ • kneeing baste layer of the plant hibiscus : an unstable condition arising in cannabinus. I melt-spinning wherein the I. kenaf is commonly known as I extrudate forms an inflexion on mesta in India, leaving the spinneret instead of 2. being similar to jute in many drawing down directly from the of its properties, kenaf is used ~ orifice. The mo~ten filam~nt either as an alternative to, or in I thus has a Ia:ee-like shape Just admixture with, jute. : below the orifice . • knit • kersey to form a fabric by the 1. a fulled, woven fabric, gen- 11========7Qmle
  20. II bitfobrics I kurtR. 139 *================ intermeshing of loops of yarn. ~ knots in yarn at various stages • knit fabrics I of manufacture. fabrics made from only one ; • kodel set of yarns, all running in the ; a brand of polyester, trademark same direction. Some knits : of the Eastman chemical com- I have their yarns running : pany. along the length of the fab- ~ • kontush ric, while others have looping the yarns around each other ~ generously cut caftan-shaped holds their yarns running I mantle worn in Poland. The across the width of the fab- ~ term passed to Germany and ric, knit fabrics together. : the Nordic countries where it Knitting creates ridges in the ~ referred to women's gowns, resulting fabric. ; robes volantes or gowns a la : francaise worn in the 18th cen- • knit-de-knit I : tury. a type of yarn texturising in ~ • kurdi which a crimped yarn is made by knitting the yarn into a fab- ~ a jacket or coat meant for out- ric, and then heat-setting the ; erwear. The garment popular fabric. The yarn is then : under this name in Persia was I . unravelled from the fabric and : known m India as a nadiji. I used in this permanently : - kurta crinkled form. ~ variously described in the dic- • knitwear ~ tionaries as 'a tunic, waist coat, a term applied in the generic ; jacket, shirt', the kurta became sense to all knitted outer gar- : popular in the 18th and 19th ments except stockings and ~ centuries essentially as a slightly I loose-fitting garment for outer socks. : wear, often with a round neck I ' • knotter : of knee-length or even longer, an automatic device for tying ~ with side-slits at the hem and Thmk=================================== II
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