Giáo trình Tiếng Anh chuyên ngành Sợi dệt (Trình độ: Cao đẳng) - Trường CĐ Kinh tế - Kỹ thuật Vinatex TP. HCM

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Giáo trình Tiếng Anh chuyên ngành sợi dệt được gồm có 7 units như sau: Unit 1: knowledge about textile fibers; unit 2: natural cellulosic fibers; unit 3: natural protein fibers; unit 4: manufactured fibers; unit 5: synthetic fibers; unit 6: fiber properties; unit 7: knowledge about fabrics.

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Nội dung Text: Giáo trình Tiếng Anh chuyên ngành Sợi dệt (Trình độ: Cao đẳng) - Trường CĐ Kinh tế - Kỹ thuật Vinatex TP. HCM

TẬP ĐOÀN DỆT MAY VIỆT NAM TRƯỜNG CAO ĐẲNG KINH TẾ -KỸ THUẬT VINATEX TP. HCM GIÁO TRÌNH MÔN HỌC: TIẾNG ANH CHUYÊN NGÀNH SỢI DỆT NGÀNH: CÔNG NGHỆ SỢI, DỆT TRÌNH ĐỘ: CAO ĐẲNG Ban hành kèm theo Quyết định số: /QĐ-... ngày … tháng .... năm … của i u tr ng r ng ao đ ng ng ngh hành phố h inh. TP.HCM, năm 2014 2
Unit 1: Knowledge about Textile Fibers TUYÊN BỐ BẢN QUYỀN Tài liệu này thuộc loại sách giáo trình nên các nguồn thông tin có thể được phép dùng nguyên bản hoặc trích dùng cho các mục đích về đào tạo và tham khảo. Mọi mục đích khác mang tính lệch lạc hoặc sử dụng với mục đích kinh doanh thiếu lành mạnh sẽ bị nghiêm cấm. LỜI GIỚI THIỆU iáo trình Tiếng nh chuyên ngành sợi dệt được biên soạn theo chư ng trình môn học “Tiếng nh chuyên ngành sợi dệt Ngành ông nghệ s i dệt hoa ông nghệ dệt may – Trư ng ao đ ng inh tế – thu t inatex TP ồ hí Minh. o phục vụ cho học t p c a sinh viên ngành sợi – dệt nên nội dung c a giáo trình được biên soạn t p trung vào quy trình công nghệ tiền xử l các loại v t liệu dệt được sử dụng ph biến hiện nay thêm vào đó là nh ng lưu để đạt được hiệu quả và cho chất lượng t t khi áp dụng các quy trình công nghệ tiền xử l cho m i loại v t liệu được đ c kết t th c tế tại các doanh nghiệp trong nh ng n m qua. Ngoài ph n “M đ u trình bày tóm t t về d y chuyền công nghệ hoàn tất vải mục tiêu và ngh a chung c a Tiếng nh chuyên ngành sợi dệt yêu c u về chất lượng nước trong hoàn tất sản ph m dệt các nội dung c n lại c a iáo trình bao gồm 2 chư ng: o hiện nay c n có s khác nhau về việc sử dụng thu t ng trong ngành dệt – nhuôm, mặc dù đã rất nhiều c g ng trong quá trình biên soạn song không thể tránh được thiếu sót. h ng tôi mong nh n được s góp c a bạn đọc để giáo trình ngày càng được hoàn thiện. Mọi kiến đóng góp xin g i về địa ch ộ môn ông nghệ sợi dệt hoa ông nghệ dệt may Trư ng ao đ ng inh tế - thu t inatex TP Hồ Chí Minh s 586 ha ạn n phư ng Linh Đông Qu n Th Đức TP ồ hí Minh. Tác giả M CL C UNIT 1: Knowledge about Textile Fibers trang 2 UNIT 2: Natural Cellulosic Fibers trang 6 UNIT 3: Natural Protein Fibers trang 12 UNIT 4: Manufactured Fibers trang 16 2
Unit 1: Knowledge about Textile Fibers UNIT 5: Synthetic Fibers trang 20 UNIT 6: Fiber Properties trang 32 UNIT 7: Knowledge about fabrics trang 38 GIÁO TRÌNH MÔN HỌC/MÔ ĐUN Tên môn học/mô đun: Công nghệ tiền xủa lý sản phẩm dệt Mã môn học/mô đun: MH17 Vị trí, tính chất, ý nghĩa và vai trò của môn học/mô đun: - ị trí - Tính chất - Ý ngh a và vai tr c a môn học/mô đun Mục tiêu của môn học/mô đun: - Về kiến thức - Về k n ng - Về n ng l c t ch và trách nhiệm Nội dung của môn học/mô đun: Unit 1: Knowledge about Textile Fibers It’s important to understand fibers and their performances because fibers are the basic unit of most fabrics. Fibers contribute to the aesthetic appearance of fabrics; they influence durability, comfort and appearance retention; they influence the care required for fabrics; and they influence the costs. Fibers must have sufficient strength, pliability, length, cohesiveness to be spun into yarns. 3
Unit 1: Knowledge about Textile Fibers Textile fibers have been used to make cloth for several thousand years. Until 1885, when the first manufactured fiber was produced commercially, fibers were produced by plants and animals.The fibers most commonly used were wool, flax ,cotton and silk. Textile process –spinning, weaving, knitting, dyeing and finishing of fabrics were developed for natural fibers. These traditional processes have been modified for manufactured fibers. New processes have been developed specifically for manufactured fibers. Fiber properties contribute to the properties of a fabric. For example, strong fibers contribute to the durability of fabrics; absorbent fibers are good for skin – contact apparel and for towels, flame- retardent fibers are good for children sleepwear protective clothing. I. Vocabulary and terminology A – Keyterms and Textile terminologies fiber: xơ sợi spun: kéo sợi performance: sự hoạt động yarn: sợi fabrics: vải clothes: vải aesthetic appearance: vẽ mỹ quan bề ngoài manufactured fiber: sợi nhân tạo durability: độ bền lâu wool: len comfort: sự ti n nghi cotton: bông flax: xợi lanh plants: cây cỏ silk: tơ lụa processes: qui trình appearance retention: giữ lại vẻ bề ngoài natural fibers: xơ sợi tự nhiên của vải absorbent fibers: xơ ngấm n ớc 4
Unit 1: Knowledge about Textile Fibers fiber properties: t nh chất của xơ sợi spinning : kéo sợi care: sự chăm sóc cohesiveness: t nh kết d nh costs: giá dyeing: nhuộm length: chiều dài finishing: hoàn tất pliability: t nh gấp đ ợc skin –contact apparel: vải tiếp xúc với da strength: độ bền (quần áo) towels: khăn tắm flame-retardent fibers: xơ chống lửa (kh ng sleepwear protective clothing: quần áo ngủ cháy) an toàn weaving, knitting: d t vải (d t thoi, d t kim) B – Comprehension 1. Why is it important to understand fibers and their performances? 2. Give some examples of the influence of fibers on fabric? 3. How long have textile fibers been used to make cloth? 4. What are the two kinds of materials used to produce fibers? 5. Name traditional textile processes. 6. Give some examples of fiber properties? C - True/ false 1. They produced fibers by plants and animals. 2. Wool, flax, cotton and silk were the first manufactured fibers. 3. The traditional textile processes were developed for natural fibers. 4. Fiber properties contribute to the properties of a fabric. 5. Fabrics are the basic unit of most fibers. II - Grammar: 5
Unit 1: Knowledge about Textile Fibers 1. The simple past in passive form. was / were + past participle e.g.: Fibers were produced by plants and animals. The first manufactured fiber was produced in 1985. 2. The present perfect in passive form. have / has + been past participle e.g.: Textile fibers have been used to make cloth for several thousand years. New processes have been developed specifically for manufactured fibers. Note: The passive is common in scientific writing where the action described is felt to be more important than the actors. III. Exercise Put the following sentences into passive voice. 1. We have used it for several thousand years in China. 2. His boss has transferred him to another department. 3. The newspapers reported the event immediately. 4. They produced fibers by plants and animals. 5. They have constructed these houses quickly. 6
Unit 2: Natural Cellulosic Fibers Unit 2: Natural Cellulosic Fibers 1/ Cotton Cotton is the most important apparel fiber. In 1990 cotton met 49% of total world fiber demand. Cotton has a combination of properties – pleasing appearance, comfort, easy care, moderate cost and durability- that make it ideal for warm-weather clothing; active sportswear; work-cloth; upholstery; draperies; arearugs; towels and bedding. Cotton is an important part of many blended fabrics. The cotton spinning and weaving industry began in India. Cotton classification describes the quality of cotton in terms of grade; staple length; and character. Fiber length includes short-staple (0.6-2-3cm); medium-staple (2.3 -2.87cm); long-staple (2.87-3.5cm); extra-long staple (>3.5cm). Grade refers to the color of the fiber and the absence of dirt, loaf matter, and seed particles. The best quality grade is lustrous, silky, white and clean. Color of cotton is ranged from white to yellow. Character refers to maturity and smoothness of fibers within bale. 2/ Flax Flax is one of the oldest textile fibers. The term linen refers to the fabric made from flax. Today flax is a prestige fiber as the result of its limited production and relatively high cost. The unique and desirable characteristics of flax 7
Unit 2: Natural Cellulosic Fibers are its body, strength and thick- and-thin fiber bundle which give good texture to fabrics. The main limitation of flax is low resiliency. Flax has high natural luster, high moisture regain (12%) and is a good conductor of heat , so it makes an excellent fabric of warm- weather wear. 3/ Ramie Ramie is known as a grasscloth. It has been used for several thousand years in China. Ramie is long, lustrous and fine. It is one of the strongest natural fibers known. But ramie has some disadvantages; it is stiff and brittle, lacking resiliency. Ramie is used to make sweaters, shirts, blouses and suiting. It is also used in blends with cotton, wool to make ropes, nets, auto upholstery, hanknotes, and cigarette paper. 4/ Jute Jute is the cheapest textile cellulosic fibers. It is grown throughout Asia, chiefly in India and Bangladesh. Jute is used for carpet backing, sugar bagging, rope and cordage. 8
Unit 2: Natural Cellulosic Fibers I. Vocabulary and terminology A - Keyterms and textile terminologies apparel fiber: xơ để làm ra quần áo blended fabrics: vải pha pleasing appearance: vẻ ngoài làm hài lòng grade: cấp b ng comfort: thoải mái short-staple: xơ ngắn easy care: chăm sóc dễ dàng loaf matter: chất đống bánh durability: bền lâu bale: ki n b ng warm-weather clothing: quần áo mặc ấm flax: xơ lanh sportwear: quần áo thể thao prestige fiber: xơ kỳ di u work cloth: quần áo lao động resiliency: độ đàn h i upholstery: vải bọc đ m, ghế bedding: vải trải gi ng towels: khăn tắm, khăn mặt staple length: chiều dài xơ spinning: kéo sợi seed particles: các phân tử hạt nhỏ silky: mịn màng nh tơ linen: vải lanh smoothness: sự trơn tru, mềm mại moisture regain: độ ẩm cho phép fiber bundle: một chùm xơ ramie: cây gai conductor of heat: chất dẫn nhi t stiff: cứng grasscloth: vải cây cỏ blends with cotton: vải pha b ng brittle: giòn dễ gãy banknotes: giấy bạc auto upholstery: vãi bọc t jute: đay cigarette paper: giấy thuốc lá nets: l ới ropes: dây thừng sugar bagging: bao đựng đ ng carpet backing: vải lót thảm cordage: làm dây thừng arearugs: vải phủ B - Comprehension 1. What are the properties of cotton? 9
Unit 2: Natural Cellulosic Fibers 2. What is the cotton used for? 3. How can the quality of cotton be described?. 4. How is the color of cotton ranged? 5. What is the character of cotton referred to? 6. What term refers to the fabric made from flax? 7. What are the unique and desirable characteristics of flax? 8. What is Ramie known as? 9. Give some the properties of Ramie. C- True / False 1. Cotton can blend with many fabrics. 2. The quality of cotton depends on terms of grade and character. 3. Low resiliency is a part of the main limitation of flax. 4. otton can’t be used in blends with Ramie. D- Vocabulary 1. Cotton has a ___________ of properties: pleasing appearance, comfort, easy care. 2. _______ refers to the color of the fiber and the absence of dirt. 3. Color of _______ is ranged from white to yellow. 4. The main limitation of flax is _________. 5. Ramie is also used in _______ with cotton. II. Grammar 1. The present simple in passive form Am Is + past participle Are 10
Unit 2: Natural Cellulosic Fibers E.g.: Ramie is used to make sweaters, shirt. . . Ramie is known as a grasscloth. The fabric is made from flax. Color of cotton is ranged from white to yellow. 2. In the superlative degree. adjective - est Subject + verb + the most – adj + in …. least – adj of ….. E.g.: Cotton is the most important apparel fibers. Flax is the oldest textile fibers. Jute is the cheapest textile celulosic fibers. Note 1. After the expression “one of the + superlative be sure the noun is plural and the verb is singular. E.g.: One of the oldest textile fibers is flax. Ramie is one of the strongest natural fibers. 2. In the superlative degree, three or more entities are compared, one of which is superior or inferior to the others. III. Exercise Exercise 1: Put the following sentences into passive voice 1. People grow rice in India. 2. My aunt makes this rug. 3. They fix my car today. 4. They build a new hospital outside of the town. 11
Unit 2: Natural Cellulosic Fibers 5. Does Tom write that report? 6. Machine scores the examination papers. Exercise 2: Complete the conversations using the superlative form of the adjective. 1. That house is very big. Yes ………………………in the village. 2. Brad Pitt is a very popular film star. Yes ………………….. in merica. 3. She is a very funny teacher. Yes …………………… in our school. 4. Anna is a very intelligent student. Yes …………………. in the class. 5. This is a very easy exercise. Yes …………………….. in the book. 12
Unit 3: Natural Protein Fibers Unit 3: Natural Protein Fibers Natural protein fibers are of animal origin: wool and silk. 1/ Wool is one of the first fibers to be spun into yarns and woven into cloth. Wool was one of the most widely used textile fiber and now is a luxury fiber. The wool legally includes fiber from fur and hair of various animals such as Sheep, Angora goat, Cashmere goat, Camel. Because of its physical structure, wool contributes loft and body to fabrics. Wool sweaters, suits, carpets, and upholstery are the standard “looks by which manufactured fiber fabrics are measured. Beside drape, luster, and hand, wool fabrics are very durable and high hygroscopic which are the outstanding features of wool. 2 / Silk Silk is a natural protein fiber. It is similar to wool and is produced by the larvae of a moth. According to Chinese legend, silkculture or sericulture began in 2640 B.C.when Empress Hsiling Shi became interest in silkworms and learned how to reel the silk and to make it into fabric. Silk is universally accepted as a luxury 13
Unit 3: Natural Protein Fibers fiber having a combination of properties not possessed by any other fiber: “ ry tactile hand; Natural luster; High strength; Good moisture absorption; lively draping qualities. Silk can be dyed or printed in brilliant colors. Silk is used in apparel and furnishing items. Because of its absorbency, silk is appropriate for warm-weather wear, active sport wear, socks. Because of its low heat-conductivity, silk is also appropriate for cold weather wear. I. Vocabulary and terminology A- Keyterms and textile terminologies natural protein fibers: xơ tự nhiên gốc Angora goat: con dê động vật wool: len silkculture or sericulture: tr tu d t silkworms:con sâu tằm lụa/kỹ ngh reel the silk : kéo tơ/kéo kén to be spun into yarns: kéo thành sợi igh strength: c ng lực cao woven into cloth: d t thành vải camel: lạc đà luxury fiber: xơ sang trọng/đắt tiền dyed or printed: nhuộm / in fur and hair: lông và tóc manufactured fiber fabrics: vải từ xơ nhân Good moisture absorption: sự hút ẩm tốt tạo warm-weather wear: quần áo th i tiết ấm drape, luster, and hand: rủ/bóng bẩy/s tay durable and high hygroscopic:bền và sức hút sheep: con cừu ẩm cao Lively draping qualities: t nh chất rủ/sống outstanding features: t nh chất nổi trội xuất động sắc loft and body fabric: khoảng trống và độ larvae of a moth : ấu trùng của con ngài dày dặn 14
Unit 3: Natural Protein Fibers sweaters, suits: áo kiểu/bộ đ carpets, upholstery: thảm/ vải bọc lót combination of properties: tập hợp các t nh chất tactile hand: liên quan đến s tay B- Comprehension 1. What fibers do wool and silk belong? 2. What is the wool legally made from? 3. What are the outstanding features of wool? 4. What is the difference between silk and wool? 5. Give some examples of the outstanding features of silk. C- Vocabulary 1. Fibers are spun into _______ and woven into cloth. 2. _______ includes fiber from fur and hair of various animals. 3. ______ is produced by the larvae of a moth. 4. Silk can be dyed or _______ in brilliant of colors. 5. Silk is also appropriate for _______ weather wear. D- True / False 1. One of the outstanding features of wool is high hygroscopic. 2. Wool includes fiber from fur , hair and skin of animals. 3. Silk has properties not possessed by any other fiber. 4. Silk is not appropriate for cold weather wear. 15
Unit 3: Natural Protein Fibers II. Grammar Passive form with modal verbs: can, must, may, should, will, would Modal verb + be + past participle E.g.: The fabric must be selected for the end – use. Silk can be dyed in brilliant colors. Fibers can be spun into yarns and woven into cloth. III. Exercise Exercise 1: Put the following sentences into passive voice. 1. You must finish this exercise by 9 o clock. 2. You may use this room for the meeting place. 3. People should plant tomatoes in spring. 4. Someone ought to paint that fence. 5. Someone had to fix our car before we left for Chicago. 6. People can not control the weather. 7. We could not understand what he had written. 8. Must Mr. Hook sign this report? 16
Unit 4: Manufactured Fibers Unit 4: Manufactured Fibers There are two groups of manufactured fibers: cellulosic and protein. The cellulosic manufactured fibers are more important to the textile industry. 1/Rayon Rayon was the first manufactured cellulosic fiber. The developers of rayon were trying to make artificial silk. Rayon was originally used in crepe and linenlike apparel fabrics. The high twist that was required to make the crepe yarn reduced the bright luster of the fibers. Transparent velvet, sharkskin, tweed, challis and chiffon were also made from these first rayons. In 1940, high - tenacy rayon for tyre was developed. High – wet - modulus rayon or polynosic rayon is refered to a high- performance, high-strength rayon which expanded the use of rayon in apparel, home furnishing and industrial products. Rayon fibers are highly absorbent, soft, comfortable, easy to dye, and versatile. Fabrics made of rayon have soft drape that designers love. Rayon can be made into cottonlike, woolike, silklike fabrics. 2/ Acetate Acetate was the first thermoplastic or heat- sensitive fiber. Acetate is available as staple or filament. Acetate is an ester of cellulose and therefore has a different chemical structure than rayon or cotton. Acetate has a combination of properties that makes it valuable textile fiber. It is low in cost and has good draping qualities. Acetate has been promoted as the beauty fiber. It 17
Unit 4: Manufactured Fibers is widely used in satins, brocades and taffetas in which luster, body and beauty of fabric are more important than durability or ease of care. Acetate keeps white color and that is the advantage over silk which yellows readily. A small percentage of nylon may be combined with acetate to produce a stronger fabric. Some disadvantages of acetate fabric are; low breaking tenacity; poor resistance to abrasion; not very resilient and wrinkle during use, lack the easy care. Acetate is used in apparel, furnishings and industrial products, however, since acetate is not a durable fiber, the fabric must be carefully selected for the end-use and more cares must be taken during use it. I. Vocabulary and terminology A - Keyterms and textile terminologies manufactured fibers: xơ nhân tạo acetate: sợi a-xê-tác rayon: sợi rai- on ester of cellulose: vải este của xenlulo artificial silk: lụa/tơ nhân tạo satins: xa tanh 18
Unit 4: Manufactured Fibers high twist: độ xoắn cao durability: độ bền lâu bright luster: bóng sáng ease of care: dễ dàng chăm sóc velvet ; sharkskin: nhung;vải sacxkin sáng, bóng nh da cá mập high-tenacy: độ dai cao low breaking tenacity: độ dai kéo đứt kém soft drape: độ rủ tweed, challis and chiffon: nỉ, len có in hoa resilient and wrinkle: đàn h i và nhăn poor resistance to abrasion: chống lại độ mài mòn kém high-wet-modulus rayon ( polynosic): phân tử ớt cao crepe and linenlike: vải giống lanh , vải crepe cottonlike , woolike, silklike fabrics cellulosic and protein fibers: xơ gốc xenlulo và gốc động vật brocades and taffetas: vải gấm có hoa, vải taffetas (vải bóng nh lụa) II. Exercise B- Comprehension 1. How many groups do manufactured fibers consist of? What are they? 2. Name some manufactured fibers. 3. What fiber was artificial silk made from? 4. Why was the crepe yarn required the high twist? 5. What products were made from the rayons? 6. Beside being used for apparel fabrics, what can high tenacy rayon also be used? 7. Give some examples of rayon properties? 8. What is the difference between rayon and acetate? 19
Unit 4: Manufactured Fibers 9. What is the advantage of acetate fabric? 10. What is the disadvantage of acetate fabric? C – Vocabulary 1. The developers of rayon were trying to make_________ silk. 2. _______ can be made into cotton like, wool like fabric 3. _______ was developed for tyre. 4. A small percentage of _________ may be combined with acetate to produce a stronger fabric. 5. The fabric must be carefully selected for the ________. D- True /False 1. The crepe yarn reduces the bright luster of the fibers. 2. Artificial silk were made from manufactured fiber. 3. Acetate can be combined with any other fiber to produce a stronger fabric. 4. The outstanding of Acetate is the easy care and durability. 5. Acetate and Rayon are different from chemical structure. 20