Van hoa ven song Ma
d
Thanh Hoa
(Budc dau tiep can)
NGUYEN BICH THUC*
N
gfldi xfl Thanh tfl hid cd mdt
ddng sdng trfldng tdn cflng lieh sfl
- sdng Ma. Ddng sdng va eae phu lflu cua
nd bao trum toan bp 11/27 huyen, thi,
thanh cua tinh Thanh Hda. Sdng Ma da
giup cho xfl Thanh cd mpt dien mao dia ly
- lieh sfl - vin hda ddc dio, cung gdp
chung lam nen sfl da dang ve lieh sii, vin
hda Viet Nam trong qui khfl-hien tai va
hfldng den tfldng lai. Theo nhieu tai lieu
dia chf bien soan tfl thdi Nguyin, vd'n tfl
xfla sdng Ma da cd ra't nhieu ten gpi khic
nhau nhfl: Ta't Mi, Ldi Giang, sdng Li,
Dinh Minh, Nguyet Thfldng, Hdi Thfldng,
Hpi Trieu, Nd Giang, Da Lpc... Trong cic
ten sdng nay, cd nhieu ten li'y theo ten gpi
dia danh ndi ddng sdng di qua (nhfl di qua
nui Da Lpc d Yen Dinh thi gpi li sdng Da
Lpc,
di qua Hpi Trieu, tflc Hdi Thfldng thi
gpi la sdng Hdi Trieu, hay sdng Hdi
Thfldng...). Tfl nga Ba Bdng - mdt nhanh
re qua Ha Trung ve
ciia
bien Bach Cau -
dan gian vin gpi la sdng Len, cdn sfl sach
thi gpi dd la sdng Nga Giang, sdng Dai
Lai,
sdng Nam Thac, hoac sdng Cu, sdng
Che.
Rieng nhanh ve Ham Rdng de dd vio
Cfla Hdi (tflc Hdi Trieu) thi van gpi la
sdng Ma. Gan chd Ham Rdng, nhinh chay
qua Tao de ve Lach Trfldng thi gpi la song
Tao,
hay sdng Lach Trfldng (cdn sfl sach
thi gpi la Ngu Giang). Tfnh tfl dau ngudn
tdi cfla bien, con sdng dai 528 km, trong
do phan chay tren lanh thd Viet Nam la
410km. Rieng tren dia phan Thanh Hoi
la 242 km. Theo sich Dia chf Thanh hda
tip I, cho biet: "Toin bd dien tfch lflu vflc
sdng Ma la
28.106km^,
phan ben Viet
Nam la
20.2
lOkm^,
rieng Thanh Hoa
chiem gan
9.000km*'.
Theo thd'ng ke nam
1996,
sdng Ma chay qua 11 huyen, thanh
phd', gdm 148 xa nim hai ben trien sdng/
637 xa trong toan tinh Thanh Hda.
Trai qua qua trinh phat trien lau dai
cua lieh sii, sdng Mi gan nhfl khdng thay
ddi ve hinh thu cflng nhfl ddng chay. Duy
chi cd cfla bien Lach Trfldng xfla la cfla
chfnh cfla sdng Mi dd ra bien, thi ngay
nay, bien day lui ve phia Nam - qua trinh
ay da lam cho cfla Lach Trfldng thu hep
dan, mi't di vi trf
sdmdt
trong giao thudng
Ths.
Nguyen Bich Thuc, NCS. TrUdng Dai hoc Van hoa Ha
Noi
Nguyen Bich Thue - Vdn hoa ven song Md
d
Thanh Hda (Bude ddu dep cdn) 65
dfldng thuy tren sdng Ma. Tam quan
trpng cua sdng Ma
ddi
vdi mpt vung dia ly
tfldng
ddi
khep kfn trd nen vd cflng quan
trpng va cd nhflng da'u an die biet trong
lieh
sfl van hoi.
Ve phfldng dien van hda, sdng Ma dfldc
xem li con
thuyen
chd nhflng ddng chay
vin boa. Sdng Ma vdi vi the li con sdng
ldn nhi't vflng, con sdng chuyen tai, ket
ndi
cic ddng chay van hoi, con sdng giflp
lflu gifl cic gii tri ban sic cua mpt vung.
Theo tic gia Tran Lam Bien trong Mdt
con dfldng tiep can lieh sfl, nhin
dirih
rang: "Khi ndi de'n vdn minh sdng Hong
md khdng quan tdm de'n sdng Md thi nen
vdn minh dy trd nen khdp khieng...", vi
each
day vai nam, nhieu nha nghien cflu
cdn nhin xet: "Vdn minh sdng Hdng thiic
te la
diia
tren
sii
phdt trien ndng nghiep
cua ddng bdng sdng Hdng, nhUng
sii
phdt
trien cda nd thiic chdt lgi gdn vdi song Md,
md dinh cao
Id
nin nghe thudt Ddng Sdn".
Trfldc cdng nguyen, cac bp tpc ngfldi
Viet cd da men theo hai ben bd sdng de
giao lflu vdi cac vflng Sam Nfla (Lao), Tiy
Bae (Viet Nam), die biet la vdi cac din tdc
thieu sd (Mfldng, Thai, Mdng, Dao phfa
Bic va Tay Bic. Con ngfldi tfl vflng nui
cao lai theo men theo ddng sdng xudng cic
vflng ddng bing. Tren con dudng thien ly,
nhieu bp phan da dflng lai dinh cfl ven cic
gd ddi va eac thung lung mau md. Vi le dd,
ngay nay tai nhieu huyen ddng bing nhu
Trieu Sdn, Yen Dinh, Thp Xuan va ngay
ca thi xa Bim Sdn vin cdn cd cac ban
Mudng sd'ng xen ke vdi ngfldi Kinh.
Do dia gidi hanh chfnh gan gui phfa
thUdng ngudn sdng Ma cd ri't nhieu ba eon
dan tdc thieu
so'
sinh sd'ng (thd'ng ke cd 06
din tdc). Vflng thfldng lflu sdng Ma la ndi
dien bien nhieu sfl giao thoa van boa cua
cic tdc ngfldi thieu sd' dpe ddi bd sdng Ma:
Khd Mfl- Lid; Thii - Khd Mfl; Thii-
Mfldng; Mfldng - Kinh... Qua trinh giao
thoa vin hoi di dem den nhieu gii tri van
hoi ddc dio cdn bao tdn de'n ngiy nay
thdng qua sinh boat vin hoi cua bi con
cic din tdc dfldc the hien d thd ca, tuc trd,
le hdi, diin xfldng...
Ha lflu sdng Mi li vflng di't mau md,
edng cupc khai khan keo dii den the ky 15
vin chfla hoan chinh, thu hut nhieu dan
cfl Bic Bd, thfldng nhan, cd ca tfl binh den
lap ling, lap xdm, hp sinh sd'ng thuan hoa
vdi ngfldi dan ban xfl nhieu ddi... Do vay,
vflng ha lflu sdng Mi li ndi hdi tu nhieu
hien tfldng vin boa va tfn
ngfldng
die sic.
NhQng ndi tfch tu van hoa dim dac
nha't la cic diem hdp lflu gifla sdng Ma
cflng cac chi lflu: nga ba Dau - ndi sdng
Chu hoa vao sdng Ma, nga Giang - ndi
sdng Ma chia nhanh sdng cau Tao, nga ba
sdng Hoat tai ciia Bio Vin (Nga Sdn), nga
ba sdng Tuari. Diem tiep xuc quan trpng
nha't chfnh la nga Ba Bdng-ndi sdng ma
chia nhinh sdng Len, day dfldc coi la ndi
tiep xuc cua cae sie thai van hoa ba vflng
(mien nfli, ddng bing, trung du), cung la
diem giap ranh cua 5 huyen: Ha Trung,
Thieu Hoa, Ddng Sdn, Yen Dinh, VTnh
66 Nghien edu Dong Nam A
3/2011_
Lpc.
Ndi day cdn lflu gifl nhieu tang van
hoi vi giai thoai vdi cic ke Ring, ke Ri,
ke Bdn..., thdng qua eac di ehi khao ed Nfli
Dp,
tfl di tfch Cdn Chan Tien, di tich Ddng
Khdi, di tich Quy Chfl den vin hoi Ddng
Sdn li mdt qui trinh lieh sfl phit trien
lien tuc, nd khdng chi dflng lai trong
khdng gian cfla mdt vung, sflc manh vin
hoi Ddng Sdn lan toa den cic vflng xa hdn
nhfl sdng Hdng (Bic Bp), sdng Ca (Nghe
An),
rdi den eac qud'c gia Ddng Nam i,
dien hinh li vin minh trd'ng ddng Ddng
Sdn. Trong sich Dia chf Thanh Hda cho
biet: trong so' 178 trd'ng ddng nhdm Heger
I dfldc phat hien d Viet Nam thi Thanh
Hoi ed 56 chiec.
Trong gan 1.000 Bic thupc, vflng Ciiu
Chan (Thanh Hoa) vin la vflng hoang sd,
hiem yeu, vdi dia bin tfldng
ddi
khep
kin,
phfa Bic day Tam Diep giing ngang, phfa
Nam diy Hoang Mai chin hiem, phfa Tay
la day nfli da
cao-dfldng
bien gidi chung
vdi nude ban Lio, phfa Ddng giap bien
Ddng, dudng bd bien dii den 102km. Thdi
ky niy, chi cd nhflng ngfldi "thit tfn" vdi
trieu dinh, dan ngheo di cU vao vflng niy
khan hoang, nhung cflng xui't hien mdt so'
the
Iflc
ddi
lap vdi the che Han, nhfl trfldng
hdp cha con Le Ngpc (the ky VII). Trong
thdi ky Bic thudc va ngay ca sau thdi Ly-
Tran, Thanh Hoa van cdn la vflng ehUa
dfldc khai thic triet de, dan cfl thfla thdt.
Trong dau thdi ky Bic Thudc d Cflu Chin
dan so' chi ed 166.013 khau, trong khi dd
Giao Chau ed sd dan la 746.237 khau.
Nhung den
eudi
thdi Ly, dau Tran din sd
Thanh Hoi tang nhanh do nhieu doan di
cu tfl Bic Bd vio Thanh Hoi khai phi da't
dai,
die biet den the ky XVIII dan sd Cflu
Chin ting dot bien len den
1.250.000
ngfldi. Mae dfl di't dai rdng ldn, nhflng
phan nhieu li ddi nfli, da't ddng bing ft di,
nen ven eie ddng sdng, cfla sdng chfnh la
ndi cfl dan tap trung ddng nha't.
Tai cic cfla sdng, khao cd hpc di phat
hien chin den bing ddng mang nien dai
the ky I cd hinh tfldng ngfldi dpi den cd
anh hfldng phong cich nghe thuit An Dp
ro net, den huyen thoai di'u vet chin Phit
tren mdm di Trfldng Le d bien Sam Sdn.
Tai hdn Co Giai, ed den thd Ddc Cflde, bieu
tUdng phin than Bien-Dat lien ky thu.
Tai cic ciia bien cd nhieu di tfch gin vdi le
hdi:
den va le hpi Bi Trieu (ciia Hdi-Sam
Sdn);
den va ll hdi Tfl Vi Thanh Nfldng
(cfla Lach Bang; Lach Can; Lach Trfldng)-
thd hoing Hiu nha Tdng bi ngfldi Nguyen
bflc hai, nhay xudng bien tfl vin trdi dat
vao cfla Cdn Nghe An, bi trdi qua cic ciia
bien Thanh Hoi do vay cd ri't nhieu ndi
lap den thd hi. Ngoai ra, cdn thd Dflc Ong
d ven sdng (gan den Han Sdn-Ha Trung),
nhieu di tfch thd Linh Sdn-Thuy Than
day
die
hai ben bd sdng Ma, sdng Chu
nhfl den thd va tuc thd den
Mdi,
den
Mflng, den dl, den Sdng, nghe Sim thd
"Dflc Thinh Ngu Vi" - tflc cha con Le Ngpc
gdc ngfldi Trung Qud'c lam quan thii thu
quan Cflu Chin thdi nha Tuy da cd cong
chd'ng quan xam
lUde
nhi Dudng the ky
VT'.
Le hdi lang Vac thd cic vi Cao sdn Dai
Vfldng, Linh Quang Dai Vudng, Tdi Dai
Nguyen Bich Thue -
Vein
hoa ven song Ma
d
Thanh Hoa
(Bifde
ddu dep edn) 67
Lflu vdi nhieu than tfch ky thu ve nhflng
vi nhan than cd cdng dflng nfldc, cd dflc
eao giflp ddi. Le hpi Mai An Tiem (Nga
Sdn) li mdt net mdi trong giao lflu budn
ban vdi thfldng nhan hai ngoai. Cae den
thd Dai Vfldng Nam Hai (thd ca Voi) cflng
khi phd bien d cac vflng bien Thanh Hoa.
Cac than tfch, le hdi dan gian phan nio
phan inh ddi sd'ng tinh than, vat chit, die
trflng van hoi cua mdt vflng.
Theo sd'lieu cua Ban quan ly Di tich va
Danh thang tinh Thanh Hda, tinh den
nim 2010 toan tinh cd 147 di tich da dfldc
xep hang ci'p qud'c gia va 457 di tich xep
hang ci'p tinh, ven ddi bd sdng Ma (bin
kfnh khoang 05 km trd lai)
so'Ifldng
cac di
tfch xep hang da chiem den 230, edn rat
nhieu cic di tfch chfla xep hang dang
nam
rai ric trong cic thdn xdm, tap trung ehu
yeu d cic vflng ly sd qua cac thdi. Tic gia
Le Tad trdng Luan an Tien si di ein cfl
vao cic ddng sdng chia di tich thinh 04
nhdm - ndi cd mat dp di tfch dim die:
- Nhom di tich ven hg
lUu
sdng Md
gom:
khu vflc Ddng Sdn (den Dinh
Thfldng, den Quan Thanh, chfla Hinh
Sdn, ling Quan Man, den thd Nguyen
Van Nghi); Thieu Hoa (chua Vdm, chfla
Hfldng Nghiem, den Dfldng Dinh Nghe,
den Le Vin Hflu); Ha Trung (Ly Cung,
nghe Trinh, den Ly Thfldng Kiet, den Hin
Sdn),
VTnh Lpc (Thanh nhi Hd, den Tran
Kbit Chan -chua Hoa Long, nghe Vet-
Phu Trinh...), Yen Dinh (tfldng Bii Lang,
den Ho Bai, dinh lang Set...); Hoing Hoi
(Bang Mdn dinh, Nghe Nguyet Viet, dinh
Phfl Khe, dinh Tao Thfldng, den thd Trin
Hung Dao...); Thinh phd Thanh Hoa
(chfla Dai Bi, chua Ting Phflc, den thd Le
Uy Tran Khit Chin, chfla Mat Da, thii
mieu nhi Hiu Le).
- Nhdm di tich ven
lUu
vUc sdng Chu
gom:
Thp Xuin (khu di tich Lam Kinh
hinh cung Van Lai - Yen TrUdng), Ddng
Bic Trieu Sdn (ling Le Thdi Hien, Le Thdi
Hai,
den Thanh Ludng...).
- Nhdm di tich thugc
lUu
vUc sdng Yen
gom:
Quang Xudng, TTnh Gia, Ndng Cd'ng
(chfla Kenh, den Bflng, den Hoing Bui
Hoin, ling Le Dinh Chiu).
- Nhdm di tich thugc
lUu
vUc sdng Hoat
gom:
Nga Sdn, Hiu Lpc (chfla Sung
Nghiem, chfla Bach i, bia va ling Ta Tdn
Dai,
bia d nfli Vin Ldi, dinh Trieu Lpc....).
Neu lay diem hdp
luu
tai Nga Ba Dau
cfla sdng Chu vi sdng Ma, hoac nga Ba
Bdng khi sdng Ma chia nhinh sdng Len
thi vanh dai di tfch nim trong mpt hinh
trdn bin kfnh tfl 50 km trd lai, xu hfldng
dim
die
hdn ve phfa Tay - Bic, so' di tich
ven sdng Ma dfldc xep hang cd den hdn
100/230 di tfch thudc thdi Le - Trinh vdi
hing ngan hien vit thudc kien true dieu
khic di-gd cd nhieu gii tri. NhUng tip
trung nhieu hdn ea vin li cic de tii in
dim cae giai thoai sfl tich ve cac linh than,
nhan than d dia phfldng Thanh Hoa. Dd la
cic tich truyen, huyen thoai ve cac thanh
Lfldng, cd den chin mfldi chfn ling dpc
theo sdng ma tfl nga Ba Bdng den xa VTnh
68 Nghien cifu Dong Nam A
312011
Quang deu cd den thd Ong. Ll hdi Thinh
Ten, den thd d ling fch Ha (Hoing Hoi),
truyen thuyet ve dng Bung vi dng Vdm thi
sflc manh sieu nhien, ed kha ning khai
thien, lip dia. Ll hdi d nghe Hd Bii (Yen
Dinh) ve truyen thuyet Hung Trinh
Vudng-ecn trai thfl 11 cfla Lac Long Quin
den vung ha lflu sdng Ma de "chpn di't lip
giang Bp"... Chfnh cic yeu td'hch
stt,
yeu
to'
dia vin hoi eua mpt viing da't cd nhieu
net die biet da nudi dUdng nhiing sang tao
de cac nghe si eho ra ddi nhieu tie phim
lam nen nhflng kiet tie bing gd, da phong
phfl, da dang ve npi dflng, hinh thflc.
Do yeu to'
dja
ly, Thanh Hoi trd nen cd
mpt vj the die biet trong qua trinh phat
trien ljch sfl Viet Nam. Vung di't ma hau
het cac trieu dai phong kie'n thi't the hay
phuc quoc chpn lam cin cfl (Tran Nhit
Duat yem quan dUa Vua chay linh nan;
nhi Hd ep vua Tran Thuan Tdng ve Ly
Cung 1397, dflng thinh luy d An Tdn mUu
viec ldn; Le Ldi dUng cd khdi nghia Lam
Kinh nim 1418; nha Trjnh phd Le Trung
Hflng 1533, dflng hanh dinh b Yen
Trfldng, Van Lai chd'ng nha Mac....), vung
da't ma con ngUdi va ngudn
lUe
dfldc huy
dpng
tdi
da cho cac cupc khang chien, vung
da't dfldc chia cat bdi bdn sdng ldn: sdng
Ma, sdng Chu, sdng Hoat, sdng Yen... ta't
ca da tao nen nhflng yeu to', tfnh cieh
ngUdi xfl Thanh, van hoi xfl Thanh trong
qua khfl va anh hfldng den ngay nay.
Do yeu to' die trung ve dja ljch sii, dja
van hoa-xa hdi ma Thanh Hoa cd mdt sic
thii die trflng, trong dd con sdng Ma la
tic nhin quan trpng, nhflng sic thai vin-
hoi i'y hoi chung vdi ddng chay eua vin
hoi Viet Nam theo mdt cflng bae rieng,
lim nen sfl da dang sic thai van hoi dan
gian, ddng thdi cung phan inh ljch sfl-
vin hoi cua mdt vung, ddng gdp cho kho
ting vin boa Viet Nam "thd'ng nhi't trong
da dang"./.
TAI LIEU THAM KHAO
Dio Duy Anh, Ddt nUdc Viet Nam qua
cdc ddi, Nxb. Thuan Hda, 1997.
TS.
Ha Manh Khoa, Ldng nghe thii cdng vd
ldng khoa bdng thai phong
kie'n
d ddng bdng
songMd,
Nxb. Tfl dien bach khoa, 2009.
Tinh uy, Hpi ddng nhan dan, fly ban nhan
dan tinh Thanh Hda, Dia chi Thanh Hda
(lieh
sfl va dia ly)-Tip 1, Nxb. Vin hoa-
Thong tin, 2000.
Ban nghien cflu va Bien soan lieh sfl
Thanh Hoa,
Lieh
sd Thanh Hda (tap 1
den tap 5), Nxb. Khoa hpc xi hpi, 1990.
Ban nghien cflu vi bien soan lieh sfl Thanh
Hoa, Tu lieu dia chdt, thuy vdn,
lieh
sd,
vdn hda tieu viing vdn hda song Md xd
Thanh, Vien am nhac, Ha Npi, 1999.
Le Ngo Cat, Pham Dinh Toai, Bai Nam
qud'c sd diin ca
Lieh
sd Viet Nam, Nxb.
Van hoa Thong tin, 2004.
Vien Khoa hpc Xa hpi Viet Nam, Dgi Viet
sd ky todn thU (tap 1, 2, 3, 4), Nxb. Khoa
hpc Xa hoi, 1998.
Le Quang Dinh, Hodng Viet nhdt thd'ng
du dia chi, Nxb. Thuan Hoa, 2005.
