Natural dye sources and its applications in textiles: A brief review

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Presently there is a great demand for the use of natural colours throughout the world due to non-biodegradable and carcinogenic nature associated with synthetic dyes. Natural dyes are non-toxic, non-allergic and non-carcinogenic as these are obtained from animals or vegetable matters without any chemical processing. Natural dyes are mostly used to dye natural fibers like cotton, wool and silk.

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Int.J.Curr.Microbiol.App.Sci (2020) 9(10): 261-269 International Journal of Current Microbiology and Applied Sciences ISSN: 2319-7706 Volume 9 Number 10 (2020) Journal homepage: http://www.ijcmas.com Review Article https://doi.org/10.20546/ijcmas.2020.910.034 Natural Dye Sources and its Applications in Textiles: A Brief Review Lizamoni Chungkrang* and Smita Bhuyan Department of Textiles and Apparel Designing, College of Community Science Assam Agricultural University, Jorhat-785013, Assam, India *Corresponding author ABSTRACT Keywords Presently there is a great demand for the use of natural colours throughout the Dyes, Synthetic, world due to non-biodegradable and carcinogenic nature associated with synthetic Natural, Natural dyes. Natural dyes are non-toxic, non-allergic and non-carcinogenic as these are fibre etc obtained from animals or vegetable matters without any chemical processing. Natural dyes are mostly used to dye natural fibers like cotton, wool and silk. The Article Info colours produced by natural dyes are soothing to eyes, earthly, warm and highly Accepted: appealing. This article attempts to reviews the available natural dye sources, 07 September 2020 applications and comparison between the natural and synthetic dyes have been Available Online: also discussed. 10 October 2020 Introduction to the excessive use of synthetic dyes which is estimated around 10, 00,000 tones per annum Colour has always played a dominant role in (Gulrajani, 1999). Synthetic compounds are human life since time immemorial. In every used for dyeing textile materials and they civilization from Stone Age to the „Silicon cause water pollution as well as waste slip age‟, it has played an important role in disposal problems because these are non- adding beauty to the world (Bhuyan and biodegradable and carcinogenic. To get rid of Saikia, 2004). Our lives, the clothes we wear, this environmental as well as health hazards it the furnishings of our homes strongly is essential to think about alternative of influenced by colour (Yusuf et al., 2017). synthetic dyes which can make safe Dyes are the colourant matters which environment and human health. To this view penetrate into the fibre and appear to become point natural dyes could be a good solution a part of it. Dyes may be either natural or for textile sector. There are many natural dyes synthetic and both these dyes are used for available in different plants and vegetables in dyeing fibres, yarns and fabrics (Kajla and the Universe which may be used as Srivastava, 2006). Presently there is a great supplementary of synthetic dyes (Guha, 2019; demand for the use of natural colours Islam et al., 2014). Another alternative which throughout the world. All this happened due has fascinated many users is the use of natural 261
Int.J.Curr.Microbiol.App.Sci (2020) 9(10): 261-269 dyes, i.e., those colourants which can be dyeing process variables for producing extracted out of vegetables or animal sources uncommon shades with balanced colour are in general considered to be eco-friendly in fastness and eco-performing textiles (Tripathi nature (Kajla and Srivastava, 2006). et al., 2015; Samanta and Agarwal, 2009). Most of natural dyes have low affinity for Comparison between the natural and textiles (cotton, wool and silk) and require the synthetic dye use of mordant. The word “Mordant” has been derived from latin word “modere” As compared to synthetic dyes the natural meaning “to bite” (Prabhu and Bhute, 2012). dyes are costlier because they cannot be Mordants are generally metallic salts of produced in large quantities. However, the aluminum, iron, chromium, copper and application process of natural dyes is less others, for ensuring the reasonable fastness of costly. It should also be noted that natural the colour to sunlight and washing (Geelani et dyes have higher tinctorial value (Sengupta, al., 2016; Chungkrang et al., 2018). The 2001; Tekajev, 2003). They produce a wide mordant is known as the element which can range of excellent lustrous, gentle, soft and facilitate the chemical reaction taking place biodegradable colours with the use of between the textile fibre and the dye or different mordants. All natural dyes based on pigment; as a result, the dye is absorbed into the vegetable origin are renewable (Chavan, the textile material (Singh and Srivastava, 1995; Paul et al., 1996 and Gupta, 1990). 2015; Vankar et al., 2009). Making consumers aware of the Natural dyestuff can produce a wide range of environmental problems caused by colours by mix and match system. A small synthetically dyed textiles and making on variation in the dyeing technique or the use of alternative widely available are the keys to the different mordants with the same dye can shift success of natural dyes. Developing countries the colours of a wide range or create totally figure prominently in this equation because new colours, which are not easily possible their lower labour costs will help to offset the with synthetic dyestuffs (Tasneem and Maria, higher cost of the natural dyeing process. In 2016). addition, many developing countries already have long traditions of natural dyeing and For successful commercial use of natural possess the raw materials to extract dyes. dyes, the appropriate and standardized dyeing Natural-dyed products thus represent a good techniques need to be adopted without opportunity for value-added exports from scarifying required quality of dyed textiles countries that already are world leaders in materials. Therefore, to obtain newer shades textile manufacturing (Gulrajani, 2001; with acceptable colour fastness behavior and Mukherjee et al., 2005; Sankar et al., 2005; reproducible colour yield, appropriate Singh et al., 2001). scientific techniques or procedures need to be derived from scientific studies on dyeing Natural dyes are the safe dyes, because they methods, dyeing process variables, dyeing do not produce any undesired by-products and kinetics and compatibility of selective natural at the same time they help in regenerating the dyes. A need has also been felt to environment (Akkewar, 1999; Darwekar et reinvestigate and rebuild the traditional al.1999). In spite of these several advantages, processes of natural dyeing to control each natural dyes have over synthesis; their use is treatment (preparation, mordanting) and still limited due to the non availability of dyes 262
Int.J.Curr.Microbiol.App.Sci (2020) 9(10): 261-269 in the standardized farm, shortage of trained ochre, and clay) without any chemical dyers, knowledge gap, higher labour cost treatment (Kadolph, 2009). Natural dyes are associated with collection and preparation of obtained from various sources. These dyes dyes (Gulrajani, 1999). But many natural can be classified as: i. Plant sources -Berry, resources that are being wasted flower, bark, leaf, seed etc (e.g. catechu, indiscriminately or go away as waste products Indigofera, myrobalan, pomegranate). ii. contain useful pigments. The eco-friendly Insect sources – Cochineal and lac. iii. nature of natural dyes produces fantastic, Animal sources – Mollusk, murex snail, attractive, earthy colours (Gowda and cuttlefish and shellfish. iv. Mineral sources– Sudhakar, 2001; Kerolia and Dilliwar, 2004). Clay, ochre and malachite (Singh and Srivastava, 2015). Sources of natural dyes The main sources of natural dyes are Natural dyes have better biodegradability and classified as follows (Moses and generally higher compatibility with the Venkatachalen, 2001). environment. They are non-toxic, non-allergic and non-carcinogenic as these are obtained Vegetable dyes: In early times the plant from animals or vegetable matters without world furnished the principal source of the chemical processing (Pruthi et al., 2008). dyestuffs by which one obtained colour. Natural dyes are multi component extracts of There were as many as 500 plant species unknown concentrations out of which identified as sources for dyes. These structure of only main component is vegetable sources are not only replaceable but determined (Singh and Parmer, 1998; Khan et also bio-degradable. al., 2005). They also have pharmaceutical and health The main source of natural dyes are benefit. They can be obtained from various vegetables, animals and minerals (Rose et al., parts of a plant like roots, stems, stalks, 2005; Bansal and Sood, 2006; Phukan et al., foliage, barks, berries and seeds (Sengupta, 2005). Natural dyes are colourants which can 2001; Patel and Karolia, 2005; Singh and be derived from plants, minerals and animals; Yadav, 2000). The content and the amount of capable to dye other substances such as textile the coloring materials in plants greatly vary material, leather, food, medicine etc. This with the harvest season as well as the age of technique of dyeing was practiced by ancient the plants (Siva, 2007). people before thousands of years (Geelani et al., 2015). Animal dyes: Dyes are also obtained naturally from animals. The best red dyes Natural dyes fall into three categories on the known to the people of those early times were basis of their origin: plant, animal and mineral of animal origin and were used for various (Jihad, 2014). shades of red and purple. Secretion of insects and dried insect bodies are the major source Natural dyes extract from a variety of the of natural dyes (Qicheng et al., 2003). substance with are occur in nature such as plants (e.g., indigo and saffron); insects (e.g., Leaccifer lacca: Lac is the oldest animal red cochineal beetles and lac scale insects); dye known to man which is obtained from the animals (e.g., some species of mollusks or resinous secretion of tiny insects Leaccifer shellfish); and minerals (e.g., ferrous sulfate, lacca. 263
Int.J.Curr.Microbiol.App.Sci (2020) 9(10): 261-269 Coccus ilicis: Kermes insects supplied the Application of natural dyes on textiles scarlet dyestuff which was used throughout ancient and medieval time. Nowadays use of natural materials and natural methods is considered to be an element that Coccus cacti: The cochineal insect was increases the value of a product and brought to Europe by the Spanish in the early contributes to sustainable life in sixteenth century after the discovery of environmental, economic and sociologic America. It gives shades of pink, purplish-red, senses (Dogan and Akan, 2018). Natural dyes grayish violet, scarlet. consist of catechins, rosmarinic acid, flavonoids, carotenoids, ascorbic acid and Murex species: Two species of this class are anthocyanin groups in the structure, which the murex brandaris and the murex trunculus. show natural anti-oxidant property also. The most highly prized ancient dyestuff, Natural dyes are mostly employed for dyeing called „Tyrian purple‟ obtained from the of natural fiber textiles to enhance their eco- juices of certain species of avails found in the friendly characteristics. They are usually water of the Mediterranean sea. applied to textiles by dyeing. Apart from indigo, other natural dyes are usually not used Mineral sources for printing directly. Natural dyes, like synthetic dyes, can also be used to dye textiles These are the dyes obtained from natural earth at all stages such as fiber, yarn, or fabric. pigments, which owe their tinctorial properties due to the presence of oxides or the Fiber dyeing has the advantage that any shade hydrated oxids of manganese. Example of variation can be easily adjusted by blending mineral dyes are chrome yellow, iron buff, and therefore has been practiced at industrial Prussian blue, nankin yellow and manganese scale also but is costly due to problems in brown etc. spinning and loss of dyed fibers. Wool is generally dyed in yarn form and traditional They are very much insoluble in water and dyers prefer yarn dyeing for all materials as it other solvents therefore the presence of binder offers versatility in designing during weaving. is necessary to attack on the fiber surface. The Dyeing is normally carried out by hand in colours obtained on the fiber are extremely large vessels. Iron, stainless steel, copper, and resistant to light and chemical agencies and aluminum vessels are used. Dyeing in copper are modified to deeper and richer shades by vessels is considered to produce bright calcinations. Many mineral colourants have shades. Aluminum vessels are normally been found to be poisonous in nature stained with a particular dye hence should be therefore, they have limited applications. used if only one type of dye is used. Stainless steel vessels are most preferred for the natural As minerals are used for fixing or improving dyeing process. On a larger scale, hank- the fastness of vegetable dye, the name dyeing machines have been successfully used natural dye is more appropriate which cover (MIAH et al, 2016). all the dyes derived from natural resources including vegetable dyes as well as minerals. Natural fibres can successfully bond with And some minerals are also used to give a natural dye. Mainly silk, wool, alpaca from coloring matter. For example seru, cow urine, animal origin and cotton, jute, linen from cow dung, egg albumin (Jihad, 2014). plant origin are considered as natural fibres. Animal fibres are protein based fibres which 264
Int.J.Curr.Microbiol.App.Sci (2020) 9(10): 261-269 have strong affinity towards natural dye than textile and other industries (Shahid-ul-Islam plant based fibres (Ado et al., 2014). et al., 2016). Dyes are generally used in textile, paper, In addition to their biodegradability and cosmetic, food, pharmaceutical and leather compatibility with the environment, natural industries (Kumar et al., 2019). According to dyes have been recently discovered to exhibit the literature, natural dyes such as Walnut other functional properties such as shells (Mirjalili and Karimi, 2013), Onion antimicrobial activity (Khan et al., 2012; shells (MIAH et al, 2016; Nurunnesa et al., Shahid et al., 2013), anti-fungal, anti-viral 2018), Cassia singueana (Teklemedhin et al., activity (Gupta et al., 2004), insect repellent 2018) Curcuma longa L. (Ibrahim et al., (Ali et al., 2013), UV protection (Sun and 2010), Senegalia catechu (Ansari et al., Tang, 2011) and deodorizing agents (Lee et 2018), Butea monosperma (Daberao et al., 2009). The cosmetic industry now al.,2016), Hibiscus Rosa Sinensis (Bose and employs many natural dyes due to the fact Nag, 2012), Ziziphus jujuba Mill. they will cause fewer side affect than the (Chungkrang et al., 2018), Orange & Lemon employment of synthetic dyestuffs but they peels (Kumar and Dhinakaran, 2017), can also provide extra properties such as UV Quercus infectoria Oliv. (Shahid et al., 2012), protection, skin moisturizing and anti-aging Saraca asoca and Albizia lebbeck (Chengaiah et al., 2010). Antibacterial (Baliarsingh et al., 2012) and so forth produce finishes can have potential benefits to contain pigments which have widespread applications the spread of disease, avoid the danger of in textile dyeing industries and represent injury-induced infection, and prevent the probable alternative to synthetic dyes. deterioration of textiles and have other advantages (Gao and Cranston 2008). As it is The leaves of Bordi (Ziziphus numularia) can evident from the increase of scholarly and be successfully used for dyeing of wool, popular literature about natural dyeing, the cotton and silk with different natural and interest in natural dyes today is growing even chemical mordants and obtained a wide range in countries where the use of natural dyes is of soft, lusterous, pastel as well as bright no more than history. It's caused by a general colours (Rai and Sharma, 2001). Natural dye environmental awareness and the increase of obtained from plants such as Black carrot, public interest in natural products. Today Hibiscus, Delonix, Plumeria, Combretum, natural dyes have a variety of applications. Ixora, and Bischofia has been used for dying They are used not only in textile dyeing and silk fabric (Shukla and Vankar, 2017). functional finishing (antimicrobial, antifeedant, deodorising or UV protective), The natural dye annatto is usually being but also as food and cosmetic colourants, recognized as Bixa orellana. It is a yellow– cosmetic healing additives, pH indicators and orange dye obtained from the seeds of this in several other uses (Carvalho and Santos, plant. It has high biodegradability, low 2016). toxicity, and compatibility with the environment. Carotenoids, apocarotenoids, In conclusion the natural colouring substances terpenes, terpenoids, sterols, and aliphatic are now developing trends for their use all compounds are main compounds found in all over the world because of health hazards and parts of this plant and are reported to exhibit a toxicity problems created by the synthetic wide range of pharmacological activities. dyes (Phukon, 2010). There are many Annatto is used in solar cells, leather, food, research works that has been carried out by 265
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