Sewing A to Z: Your source for sewing and quilting tips and techniques

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Sewing A to Z: Your source for sewing and quilting tips and techniques has many contents: Seam Finishes, Seams French, Seams Traditional.

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NANCY Z I E M A N’S Sewing Ato Z YOUR SOURCE for SEWING and QUILTING TIPS and TECHNIQUES Exclusive deal for SewMamaSew readers! Get 40% off Sewing A-Z until 9/30. Shop at store.marthapullen.com and use promo code SEWINGAZ at checkout to activate your extra savings. FEATURING 100+ TECHNIQUES
Seam Finishes Most woven fabrics ravel unless the edges are finished. After stitching a seam, add a S seam finish to each seam edge to prevent fraying. Most seam finishes are done on a single thickness of fabric to avoid bulk and make the seam flatter and neater. Here are several ways to finish seams. Zigzag Each Seam Edge Serge Each Seam Edge • Use a medium-width zigzag and a • Use a 3-thread or 4-thread serged NOTE from NANCY medium to short stitch length. overlock stitch (pages 108–109). • Stitch the zig in the fabric and the zag Edgestitching close to the close to or off the cut edge. seam edge is my least • Zigzagging works best on medium- favorite option for seam to heavy-weight fabrics. If zigzagging finishing. However, this draws in the seam edge and makes method may be your only it pucker, you may want to choose choice if you don’t own a another seam finish. serger and your machine has problems stitching WRONG SIdE a zigzag so close to the fabric edge. Edgestitch Close to Each Seam Edge WRONG SIdE • Set the machine to straight stitch. • Guide the right edge of the presser foot along the cut edge of the fabric. • You may want to adjust the needle position so it’s closer to the fabric edge. (Stitching is about ⅛"–¼" NOTE from NANCY [3mm–6mm] from the cut edge.) If fabric edges always seem to curl and pucker when you zigzag, try using an overcast guide foot. It has a center bar in the needle opening that keeps the fabric flat and prevents tunneling while the zigzag goes over the fabric edge. WRONG SIdE OvERCAST GUIdE FOOT Get the complete book Nancy Zieman’s Sewing A-Z at your local craft and book stores, or visit store.marthapullen.com and enter code SEWINGAZ at checkout for exclusive savings.
Seams: FRENCH For very sheer fabrics or fabrics that ravel easily, French seams enclose the seam allowances, giving a neat finish that practically eliminates ravelling. French seams are S a perfect choice for joining fabrics such as batiste, chiffon and voile. With two rows of straight stitching and a little pressing, you can encase the raw edges of the fabric attractively and neatly. 1 Place wrong sides together with the raw edges aligned. Straight stitch ⅜" 3 Press the joined edges flat and then press the seam open. (10mm) from the cut edges. • This makes it easier to fold the seam 1 ⁄4" (6MM) 2 Trim the seam allowance to just slightly less than ¼" (6mm) using a rotary cut- allowance along the first stitching line in preparation for the second row of machine stitching. ter and cutting mat. 4 Refold the seam allowance with the right sides of the fabric together, WRONG SIdE positioning the first stitching line at the fold. To complete the French seam, stitch ¼" (6mm) from the fold, encasing the cut edges. RIGHT SIdE 3 ⁄ 8" (10MM) NOTE from NANCY To save time, I often reverse the width of the seam allowances, stitching the ¼" (6mm) seam first, then the ⅜" (10mm) seam. This method produces a slightly wider seam, but it eliminates the trim- ming step. For extremely sheer fabric, the narrower width is best. Get the complete book Nancy Zieman’s Sewing A-Z at your local craft and book stores, or visit store.marthapullen.com and enter code SEWINGAZ at checkout for exclusive savings.
Seams: TRAdITIONAL For most projects on medium-weight woven fabric, traditional seams work well for S joining the fabric edges. 1 Set the sewing machine to stitch 10–12 stitches per inch (per 2.5cm). 3 Pin the edges together, placing the pins at right angles to the edge of the fabric. 2 Place the right sides of two pieces of fabric together, matching the seam edges, the top and bottom of the 4• Stitch the seam. Check the pattern’s seam allowance. Most patterns allow ⅝" pieces, and the notches. (16mm) but some allow only ¼" (6mm). It is important to stitch exactly on the seamline. MATCH SEAM EdGES ANd NOTCHES CHECk SEAM ALLOWANCE WRONG SIdE • Make sure the upper and bobbin threads are at the back of the machine, under the presser foot. • Place the end of the seam under the presser foot. Lower the presser foot. RIGHT SIdE • Lower the needle into the fabric by turning the balance wheel. PULL THREAdS TO bACk OF PRESSER FOOT Get the complete book Nancy Zieman’s Sewing A-Z at your local craft and book stores, or visit store.marthapullen.com and enter code SEWINGAZ at checkout for exclusive savings.
• Lock the stitches at the beginning and end of each seam to • Stitch to the seam end and backstitch. prevent them from coming out: Sew two or three stitches, then adjust the machine to stitch in reverse and sew two or • Turn the balance wheel until the take-up lever is at its highest point. three stitches—this is backstitching. • Adjust the machine to stitch forward again and continue RAISE LEvER TO stitching. Guide the fabric so the seam is a uniform width. HIGHEST POINT bACkSTITCH AT bEGINNING ANd ENd OF SEAM • Raise the presser bar lifter and pull the fabric to the back of the machine under the presser foot. • Cut the threads close to the fabric. Leave 2"–3" (5cm–8cm) of thread coming from the machine needle. • Remove each pin as you come to it. • Trim the thread ends at the beginning of the seam close to the fabric. NOTE from NANCY Another way to lock stitch is to stitch REMOvE PINS in place several times. Set the stitch jUST bEFORE SEWING OvER THEM length lever at 0 and make two to three stitches. Then return the stitch length to 10–12 stitches per inch (per 2.5cm) and continue stitching. Repeat this at the end of the seam. STITCH IN PLACE WRONG SIdE Get the complete book Nancy Zieman’s Sewing A-Z at your local craft and book stores, or visit store.marthapullen.com and enter code SEWINGAZ at checkout for exclusive savings.
S EWING The answers to all your sewing questions! Whether you’re a novice sewer or a skilled seamstress, who better to go to for sewing answers and advice than expert Nancy Zieman? Set aside your sewing fears and let Nancy guide you step-by-step through 100+ basic to advanced sewing methods and techniques. • Arranged in alphabetical order for fast and easy reference, this handy guide will make its permanent home by your sewing machine or on your workspace. • With over 100 topics ranging from Appliqué to Zippers, Nancy will help you achieve beautiful results with every project. • Helpful Notes from Nancy throughout the book provide insights and tips for a variety of sewing techniques and skills. • Spiral binding allows the book to lay flat for hands-free reference while you sew, cut or press. • Clear, concise instructions and detailed illustrations make even the most advanced techniques easy to understand and successfully execute. A wealth of information and instruction from your favorite sewing expert is at your fingertips in this go-to guide! Stitch with ease and assurance with Nancy Zieman’s Sewing A to Z by your side! Nancy Zieman is executive producer and host of Public TV’s Sewing With Nancy and the founder of Nancy’s Notions, a source for sewing and quilt- ing products. As one of the sewing industry’s most trusted voices, she has been honored and Exclusive celebrated by organizations from the National 4-H deal Club to the American Sewing Guild. Visit Nancy at US $29.99 for SewMamaSew readers! www.nancyzieman.com. Y0005 (CAN $33.99) Get 40% off Sewing A-Z ISBN-13: 978-1-4402-1429-5 ISBN-10: 1-4402-1429-8 until 9/30. Shop at 52999 store.marthapullen.com EAN and use promo code SEWINGAZ UPC at checkout to activate 0 74962 01278 4 02 cnVlZ2VyAE10zMoCMTMDMTAwATEFVVBD 01 JUYrVyBQdWJsaWNhdGlvbnMsIEluYyAo 04 SW9sYSBkaXZpc2lvbikPR3JlZ29yeSBL 03 LUEMMDc0OTYyMDEyNzg0xA== 9 781440 214295 FnL1 04 0120 02 cnVlZ2VyAE10zTEEMTAuNAI4MAExBkVB 01 JUYrVyBQdWJsaWNhdGlvbnMsIEluYyAo 04 SW9sYSBkaXZpc2lvbikPR3JlZ29yeSBL 03 Ti0xMw05NzgxNDQwMjE0Mjk1AA== FnL1 04 0124 your extra savings.